Douarnenez Maritime Festival
This morning, there’s slight excitement. The Fêtes Maritimes de Douarnenez (Douarnenez Maritime Festival, a celebration of Breton sailing) only takes place every two years. This year, you’ve come! Your might say enthusiasm is bubbling over! Whilst the coffee flows and the children butter their baguettes, you pack the bags; sailing caps, sun cream, binoculars and sketchbooks.
Head for the port of Tréboul, around half an hour’s drive from the campsite, for a fun-packed day with sails, music, boats and legends.
You park on the outskirts and take the shuttle bus operating during the event. As you approach the port, the sounds mingle; bagpipes, ships’ bells, sea shanties…The quays are already bustling, colourful, alive! Scores of traditional sailing ships are moored here, some just arrived from Ireland, the Netherlands and Latin America.
The children run from mast to mast, “Check that one out – it totally looks like a pirate ship!”
You climb aboard a Breton sloop, then an ancient three-master, where an old sea dog of a captain tells tales of the sea to make you shiver.
The rigging, sails, and pulleys…everything here is the real deal! The children stare wide eyed. You fully embrace this unique atmosphere, where heritage and adventure go hand in hand.
On the go, you grab a table overlooking the port. On the menu: galettes-saucisses (pure pork handmade sausage, grilled and rolled in a buckwheat pancake), plancha-grilled sardines and chilled cider. For dessert, salted butter caramel crêpes. A Breton pipe band goes by playing a fest-noz, traditional Breton dance melody, and the children clap along in time.
Around you, sailors in yellow oilskins, musicians from all over the world, children dressed as cabin boys… You set sail without once leaving Brittany!
You watch a sea shanty concert on a small makeshift stage, then impressive manœuvres by an ancient tall ship, leaving port to rapturous applause. On the quay, the children take part in a sailing knots workshop and proudly leave with their handmade bracelets.
You also explore the maritime village, with craft workers and exhibitions: scale models, fishing nets, sailor’s tops, traditional Douarnenez wooden clogs… An outdoor snapshot of Breton culture.
The lull before before the storm: you walk to the small Les Dames beach for an impromptu swim. The water, cool yet invigorating. The children splash about laughing, whilst you let your feet sink into the wet sand.
Time stands still here, far from the hustle and bustle of the quays, but always lulled by the far off sound of sea shanties.
You come back to the quays just in time for the big parade. All the sailing ships head offshore, with majestic choreography. The sails are hoisted, pennants flap in the breeze, foghorns bellow all around. The sky is blue, the sea glistens, you all have the same look of sheer wonderment on your faces.
A timeless, magical moment. An emotional tribute to the sea and those who brave and cherish its every tide.
The return journey is peaceful, lulled by your memories of the day. Back at the campsite, a simple dinner awaits you; pasta salad, fresh bread and Tomme de Brebis (semi-hard sheep’s milk cheese). On the terrace, everyone shares their favourite moments from today.
The children quickly fall asleep, their heads brimming with boats, Breton tunes and salt-kissed dreams. You end the evening watching the last glimmers of the day gliding over the waves…with a single desire: to come back in two years time!
