The medieval village of Locronan
The sun gradually comes up beyond the sea, and you enjoy breakfast on your mobile home terrace; steaming hot coffee, crêpes reheated in the frying pan, traditional apple juice. The children, curious, listen as you explain about the day, “We’ll visit a medieval village, with granite houses, crosses and tales of knights of old!”
Everyone slips on strong shoes, for strolling through the cobbled streets, taking a jumper for the morning breeze, and you’re en route for Locronan, less than an hour’s drive from the campsite.
As you approach, the landscape changes; wooded hills, small winding roads, and coming round a bend, you see the impressive silhouette of Saint-Ronan church and the central square, lined with 15th century houses. You’re plunged into the heart of medieval Brittany.
The children exclaim,“We thought this was a film backdrop!” (and with good reason; many films have been shot here!). You start by looking around the square, admiring the wrought-iron signs, wells, sculpted gargoyles and windows brimming with flowers.
A guide dressed in period costume takes you round the streets telling you the story of St Ronan, a 6th century hermit, whose legend still haunts the area. You learn why the village was previously a Mecca for sailcloth weaving, and how pilgrimages governed the locals’ lives.
The children ask loads of questions, fascinated by the concept of a car-free village, without electricity (in the past!) and bursting with legends! You visit the church, the ossuary – the final resting place of St Ronan, and then a small artisan weaving workshop.
You sit down on the terrace of a little granite inn. On the menu, Kig-Ha-Farz (pork and beef stew with dumplings) for mum and dad, Galette Complète (savoury buckwheat crêpe) for the kids, with dessert of Far Breton (custard flan with prunes). All washed down with a glass of cider or local organic apple juice.
All around you, the streets come alive. A musician plays the Breton bombarde (a woodwind instrument). Laughs, the aroma of salted butter caramel and sound of footsteps on the cobbles create a timeless atmosphere.
The afternoon’s focus is on having a stroll. You visit a shop selling handmade clogs, faïence glazed earthenware workshop and traditional Breton sweet shop. The children enjoy lollipops, gazing in wonder at colourful sweets, revolving in gleaming copper cauldrons.
You also stop in a Breton bookshop, where you find a delightful book of Celtic short stories and a postcard illustrated by a local artist.
You take a quaint lush trail leading to higher ground, up to the Ar Sonj chapel nestling among the trees. On the way, you discover little moss-covered crosses, and the view over the Baie de Douarnenez appears through the greenery.
A small bench awaits you for a well-deserved rest. The children pick flowers, whilst you enjoy this timeless moment, blending nature and history.
Back to the heart of the village for one last sweet treat. You pick a table in the sunshine and order sugar-coated crêpes, hot chocolate for the kids, tea or coffee for the grown-ups. A relaxing interlude before your return.
The bell rings gently, the granite stone shining in the golden light… You take one last photo all together, everyone’s eyes sparking.
On the way back, the children leaf through their little game booklet, bought at the tourist office, whilst you listen to an old Breton music CD picked up at the market.
Returning to Les Terrasses de Kersiny, the sea air welcomes you again. You prepare a light dinner. You then end the day with a walk at sunset on the beach, again thinking about this enchanting interlude in one of Brittany’s ‘Most Beautiful Villages of France’.
