Venture to the Crozon Peninsula
The sun slowly rises over Kersiny beach. Whilst the children slip on their windcheaters and trainers, you prepare the rucksack; flasks, binoculars, sun cream, light snacks…not forgetting cameras! Everyone eats breakfast in high spirits; fresh bread, lightly salted butter, homemade jam and orange juice. There is palpable excitement in the air.
This morning, you’re heading for the Presqu’île de Crozon (Crozon peninsula), a natural gem running alongside the Iroise Sea. After an hour and half’s drive and crossing Térénez bridge, you’re welcomed by the sight of the first rugged cliffs and the light, unique to the tip of western France.
You start exploring at the Cap de la Chèvre headland, the southernmost tip of the peninsula. The wind blows, awash with sea spray, and you’re off for a short easy hike on the coastal trail. There are stunning views; the sea displaying its plethora of shades of blue and green, and opposite, the Ile de Sein and Pointe du Raz spur appear to float in the mist.
The kids pretend they’re explorers, scanning the horizon with binoculars and looking for seagulls or cormorants. You gather a handful of pebbles and capture the moment – these towering cliffs, draped in heather and golden gorse.
En route to Camaret, you stop at the Pointe de Pen Hir, renowned for the impressive ‘Tas de Pois‘ (four islets resembling a pile of peas) which loom up out of the water. After a short walk, you go to the memorial dedicated to the Free French Army (formed by de Gaulle after the fall of France in 1940), poignant and understated, as it stands facing the boundless ocean.
The children run around the abandoned bunkers of the Atlantic Wall, playing soldiers and lighthouse keepers. You contemplate this wind-battered coast, rugged and magnificent, while telling them about notable events in the Second World War.
You arrive in Camaret-sur-Mer, a former fishing port brimming with charm. You sit down on the terrace, facing the port, lined with colourful houses. On the menu: mussels and chips, Galettes de Sarrasin (savoury buckwheat pancakes, with ham, grated cheese and egg), grilled fish, and traditional ice cream for dessert.
The boats sway gently in the harbour. Opposite, lined up rusty wrecks offer humorous poetry. Children have fun giving them nicknames, ‘Pirate in Chains’, ‘Stranded Siren’…and are awestruck by the church in the shape of an upturned boat.
You enter the Tour Vauban tower (the focal point for Vauban’s fortifications), listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From the top of the ramparts, there is a breathtaking view over the Iroise Sea. The children listen, fascinated, to stories about defending the coast, pirates and naval battles.
Coming out of the tower, you walk along the quays and discover several art, painting and photography galleries, inspired by the region’s rugged beauty. You leave with a small watercolour, depicting the ‘Tas de Pois‘ islets at sunset. A delightful souvenir!
The wind dies down, the sun high overhead. You head for the Veryac’h beach, sheltered by the cliffs of the Pointe du Toulinguet promontory. The children dive into the waves, build sandcastles and search for pretty shells in the shallow pools at low tide.
You stretch out on a towel, a good book in hand, while the seagulls circle above you. Time seems to stand still. You see the peninsula’s milder side, almost Mediterranean at times.
Before leaving Camaret, you have one last walk up to the Notre Dame de Rocamadour chapel, by the sea. This is a peaceful location, packed with history, where in the past sailors came to pray, prior to venturing out to sea.
On the way back, the children are already asleep in the car, their cheeks red from the wind and sunshine. You ponder this amazing day: breathtaking scenery, history, art and the feeling of having been to the ends of the earth…
